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Its name tarnished.”Perhaps tenacity saved Over-the-Rhine. Even as scars from race riots in 2001 were slow to heal, some residents stayed put.The old German community refused to abandon its heritage—in fact, priests still conduct a weekly Mass in German at Old St. And now, finally, residents and newcomers like Maney and his friends seem to be staging a revival.“Prohibition closed them, and the tunnels were forgotten.” I feel like Harrison Ford discovering the Lost Temple of Suds. Actually, here it’s all about “the indies.” As much of America decamped for the suburbs or the coasts, artists, craftspeople, and entrepreneurs rebuilt entire Cincinnati neighborhoods alongside impassioned longtimers.

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AS I SIP BOURBON with a few such pioneers at Japp’s, a former wig store on Main Street, the discussion ranges from the whereabouts of Pappy Van Winkle, the famously elusive bourbon from neighboring Kentucky, to the details of the incongruous bar in front of us, made from cabinets that once housed hair destined to crown the heads of robber baron heiresses.“What’s changed? ” I ask.“A shift in consciousness,” suggests Peggy Shannon, a former New Yorker.

Her start-up, Queen City Cookies, provides a coveted treat for locals as well as a taste of the city’s new prospects.

“Now it’s an amazing assortment of restaurants and stores, with more on the way.

This is a town full of good ideas.”Many of those come from the Cincinnati Center City Development Corporation, known locally as 3CDC and the source of some $300 million of public and private investments in the neighborhood.

Stacked like library books on an arc of hills, 19th-century town houses form neighborhoods such as Mount Adams, Mount Auburn, and Over-the-Rhine.